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 LACE DICTIONARY

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H

 

HAINAULT (France). Town where at an early date much bobbin lace was made, particularly Mechlin and blonde laces.

 

 

 

HAMBURG POINT. A term applying to drawn-work embroidered, frequently with colored silks; popular German lace.

 

 

 

 

 

 

HAMMOND.    Name  of  Nottingham lace-maker who  first produced on the stocking-frame, 1768, a fabric having the appearance of lace which he misnamed "Valenciennes." He was probably the first to produce a net on the stocking-frame.

 

 

 

HEATHCOAT. In  1809 a patent was granted to John Heathcoat for an invention which revolutionized lace-making. The first factory .operating bobbinet machines was built by Heathcoat in 1810 and in it machines produced lace eighteen, thirty, thirty-six and fifty-four inches wide. Many inventors disputed his claims to credit and many lawsuits resulted. In 181.3 the first John Levers bobbinet frame was brought out.

 

 

 

HOLLIE OR HOLY. In the early period of Venetian laces Hollie or Holy laces, the laces used for ecclesiastical purposes, were usually reticellas, but at a later period cut-work as well as darned work and drawn-work became the accepted types for church lace.

 

 

 

HONITON. The term Honiton applies now to a type of lace similar to Duchesse, but old Honiton could have been anything of a Flemish character because Honiton was the center of the English lace trade since the days of Queen  Elizabeth, and was established by Flemish refugees. (See Devonshire.) Honiton has become famous for the manipulation of fine motifs, bobbin-made, afterwards sewn or appliqued or joined to the ground. The old net has of late years been supplanted by the machine net. The most popular form of modern Honiton is produced by first making the motifs or sprigs, sewing them to blue paper and uniting them with a  needle. A specialty of Honiton is what is called Devonia lace, its characteristic being the raising in relief of the inner petals of the flowers, and the showing of butterfly wings or other forms standing up and out from the ground in imitation of the natural objects. See illustration Flower lace, also illustration under Duchesse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

HUGUENOT. Huguenot lace was an imitation lace-work. Very little of this is now made. Flowers were cut out of mull or other fabric and mounted on nets. It was very simple work.

 

 

 

HUNGARIAN.   The Hungarian peasants have been always active in the production of bobbin laces. Austro-Hungarian bobbin laces frequently follow the tape lace lines of design. Similar to Bohemian, which see. See also Austro-Hungarian. INCREASED WIDTH. Technical term applying to the enlargement of a pattern.

 

I

 

 

 

INDIAN LACE. Attempts have been made to produce lace at some of the mission schools of India but, with the exception of drawn-work and Madras bobbin lace, little success has been accomplished.

 

 

 

INNER PEARL. Ornamental loops worked around the openings of the pattern.

 

 

 

INSERTION. A strip of lace or other ornamented texture inserted as a band decoration between other materials.

 

 

 

IONIAN   ISLANDS.   Earliest    Greek    point    laces    were  made in the Ionian Islands, the home of Reticellas. A lace identical with the Greek lace, so-called Zante lace specimens, may be still purchased in the Ionian Islands.

 

 

 

IRISH. In 1743 Lady Arabella Denis, assisted by the government and by patriotic women, organized schools to improve the conditions of the Irish peasantry. Out of this movement grew the development of Irish crochet, in imitation of Point Venise. Carrickmacross lace commenced in 1820. (See Carrickmacross.) Limerick laces first made in Nottingham. Introduced into Ireland 1829. (See Limerick.) Needlepoint laces in Ireland were simply imitations of European laces. Curragh School devoted to the reproduction of Brussels applique, popularly called Irish point. Irish laces now made at Youghal, Waterford, Kinsale, Kenmore, New Ross, Killarney, Monaghan, Curragh and other places.

 

 

 

IRISH CROCHET.    See Crochet.

 

IRISH POINT. An applique curtain lace, the pattern being sewed to machine-made net. Sometimes the sprays or parts of the patterns are joined together with bars or brides and the foundation net is then cut away.

 

 

 

IRISH POINT. Sometimes called Curragh laces, although made at a dozen different places in Ireland.

 

 

 

ISLE OF MAN. Name applied to coarse Valenciennes type of lace.

 

 

 

ISLE OF WIGHT. Two kinds of lace were made here, a bobbin lace following the English method, and a lace made by outlining the pattern with a run stitch on machine net and afterwards filling in the pattern with needle-point stitches.

 

 

 

ITALIAN. Reticella is considered the earliest of Italian laces, sometimes called Greek point, made from 1480 to 1620, characterized by geometrical patterns, circles and angles, which later developed into plain conventional patterns. Following the Reticellas we have Punto in Aria. At the end of the Sixteenth Century came the Venetian points.    Laces of  Milan, Venice, Florence and Ragusa were famous. The Italian industry went into decay when the French under Colbert, in the reign of Louis XIV, began making their own laces and soon supplying themselves and other nations with not only Italian examples but newer types that we now call net laces. See Venetian Point, Punto in Aria (stitches in the air), Punto a Relievo (relief work), "Punto Tagliato (cut-work), Opus Filatorium (darned work), Punto a Groppo (knotted work), Carnassiere, Margherita, Petit Motifs, Tape Lace.


J

JABOT. French term relating to frilling or ruffling, now used to indicate pendant of fabric from the front of a collar.







                                K



KENMORE. See Irish.

KILLARNEY. See Irish.

KINSALE. See Irish

                                                                                                                   
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