From ARGENTELLA POINT To AYLESBURY
ARGENTELLA POINT. Early Italian needle-point net lace resembling Argentan and Alençon and following the efforts of the Italians to compete with the French in light net laces. There is no raised outline and the designs are conspicuous in small circles, ovals, small sprays; often called Burano point. The designs are very delicate, the thread exceed are very delicate, the thread exceedingly white; no raised work, everything flat.
ARIA. PUNTO IN ARIA. Meaning, broadly, "stitches in the air." A term applied to the earliest form of needle-point laces following reticellas, which were an evolution of cut-work. Punto in Aria was accomplished without cutting any background. See Venetian Point.
ARMENIAN. Chiefly a low-grade crochet. See Asia.
ARRAS. Town in France where early Valenciennes were made. See: [.......]
Point de Lille, Arras 19th c.
ART. GUIPURE D'ART. See Opus Araneum.
ARTIFICIAL LACE. A term applied to a lace that is not woven or embroidered, produced entirely by chemical methods, frequently made of celluloid or pulp.
The non-combustible mineral asbestos has been woven into a lace-like fabric. This curiosity was at one time kept in the Cabinet of Natural History at the Jardin des Plantes, in Paris. A solution of asbestos is sometimes used for rendering lace non-inflammable. Lace draperies and flounces used on the stage near naked lights are frequently steeped in such a solution.
ASIA. Earliest forms of lace came from the countries contiguous to Asia Minor. Egypt produced net work in fine flax, frequently darned in gold, silver or colored silks. (Isaiah xix, 9.) Mummy wrappings in Graeco-Roman tombs were ornamented or of drawn or cut-work. Armenian women have from the earliest times made veils and nettings, but to-day are chiefly employed on low-grade commercial laces. The Arabs excelled in embroideries and laces, distinguishing between Arabuna, embroidery, and Targe, lace.
AURILLAC. Old plaited and coarse bobbin laces were made here as early as the Sixteenth Century.
Lace-makers of Austria are skilled in bobbin lace, Brussels and crochet laces. There is a comparatively modern variety made in Austria, in Bohemia. It resembles old Italian bobbin lace; the school where it is made is under government Austro-Hungarian Bobbin Lace, 6inches wide. The industry was commenced as a means of relieving the distress in the
Tyrol in 1850, and continues to flourish. At Lay bach, in Austria, there was at one timea bobbin lace factory
which produced lace much esteemed in the eighteenth century ; this factory no longer exists. Point Gaze and
a few less important laces aremade in Bohemia still, but little of artistic merit. Hungarian lace is made at the
present day, some of it being of good and artistic design.
AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN. Term applied to bobbin lace, some of it of great artistic value.
At an early period the French town Au-vergne prospered in the manufacture of gold and silver laces, and many modern Cluny and simple bobbin laces and Maltese laces as well as point laces are still made here. The origin of the making of lace in the province of Auvergne is assigned to the fourteenth century, andnearly all the point lace of Aurillac passed through for exportation to Spain. At the end of the seventeenth century the products of Aurillac and other fine laces of Auvergne, sold on the Place at Marseilles, were valued at 350,000 livres per annum. It seems that the Point d'Aurillac of that period was a gold and silver lace. Thefabrication ended with the demand for less costly ornaments at the time of the Revolution. The laces of Murat (Upper Auvergne) were points much valued on account oftheir beauty, and were chiefly made at La Chaise Dieu, Alenches, and Versailles. At Tulle a speciality was made in galloons, which were tied together with a net similar tothe twisted ground of Torchon lace. These galloons were called entoilages, and were used as insertions with the finest laces. The industry died with the French Revolution.
At Le Puy the lace industry still flourishes, and an account of it will be found under that heading.
AUXERRE. Lace sometimes called Luneville lace or St. Michel lace. Made of hemp on the bobbin.
AVE MARIA. A name given by the peasants at Dieppe to a bobbin lace of Valenciennes variety.
AVORIO, Punto. Term applying in Italy to needle-point Sixteenth Century lace.
AXMINSTER. At one time headquarters of the Devonshire lace trade.
AYLESBURY. Town in England where old cotton bobbin laces were made.