From Saxony Lace To Swiss Lace
SAXONY. Commercially speaking, Saxony laces are the burnt-out laces frequently called Plauen laces because Plauen became most famous for this class of work. These Saxony machine laces made by embroidery were produced originally in Switzerland. To-day Plauen lace is regarded as a burnt-out lace because the net or fabric background to the embroidery is frequently burnt away.
SAXONY BRUSSELS. See Brussels.
SCHIFFLI. The Schiffli machine is used in the embroidery trade. It is the first step in the making of Plauen lace. The pantagraph attachment enables the operator to follow with his point all the mazy steps of the design which is mechanically reproduced upon the fabric. Besides embroidering muslins and sheer materials many beautiful laces are made by the Schiffli machine which is in general use in Saxony. The term Plauen lace is usually applied to embroidery made upon a ground chemically prepared so that it is afterwards burned out and 1, 2 and 3, simple embroidery designs on net produced by the Schiffli machine. constitutes what we call Burnt lace. The machine is able to do coarse or light work, as indicated by the illustration, imitating any type of lace or pattern.
SCOTCH CURTAINS. A type of Nottingham curtain made in Scotland is frequently called in the trade Scotch curtains. or Scotch lace curtains, though not different from machine-made curtains made elsewhere.
SCOTCH LACES. Early in the Eighteenth Century laces made by the Scotch peasants were called Bunt lace.
SEDAN. Point lace was made at Sedan and was called Point de Sedan.
SHADOW LACE. A thin, filmy or shadowy lace made on the Levers machine in any design and of any character so long as shadowy.
SHERBORNE. When blonde laces were fashionable in the latter part of the Eighteenth Century they were made both in black and white at Sherborne, Dorsetshire, England. .
SHETLAND. Bobbin lace made of Shetland wool.
SIENNA. Sometimes darned netting was called erroneously Point Sienna.
SILESIAN. Silesian laces were simply the peasant laces made in Silesia.
SILK BLONDE. See Blonde.
SOUTH AMERICAN. The South American lace tree, an illustration of which we show, has several layers of under bark which may he stripped off and separated into a craquele mesh net that is quite strong.
SPANISH. From the earliest days cut-work, darned netting and drawn-work were made in Spain. Point d'Espagne was often made with gold and silver thread. Silk blonde laces, as well as the heavier laces, were made in Spain and black silk laces and black embroidered in colors were very popular.
SPANISH GUIPURE. A name given indiscriminately to Spanish laces of the heavier type.
SPELLE WERK. Flemish for pillow lace. SPIDER WORK. Work of an irregular, twisted character. See Araneum.
ST. GALL. Famous embroidery center. By the Schiffli process St. Gall produces vast quantities of embroideries, some of which are prepared for the burnt-out process and thus converted into lace. In some instances, tambouring is done on net or plain material; "Swiss Brussels" curtains have for some years been a popular product. See Brussels. The invention of this embroidery lace, described elsewhere Swiss Embroidered Lace. where under Brussels, is due to a German named Sauer, who adapted the principles of the sewing machine to the production of embroidery and applied the work to either net, muslin or other material. At first they were called Swiss laces, St. Gall laces, embroidered laces, edelweiss laces, and not until the Plauenese got hold of the manufacturing did they become known as Plauen laces. See Saxony.
SUFFOLK. English province where bobbin lace was made and is still made in small quantities. Same type as Buckinghamshire, hand work. SWEDISH. Simple bobbin laces made in Sweden, especially Torchon of a coarse character. (See Dalecarlian.) Holesom, Rattwik, Orsa, Wadstena and Gaguef, are lace centers. Swiss.
SWISS BRUSSELS. Swiss lace-making was introduced into Switzerland in the Sixteenth Century. Gold thread was often used. In the time of Louis XIV many dainty laces were produced. To-day Switzerland is famous for its machine-made laces. (See St. Gall. See Brussels.) Irish Point curtains are frequently called Swiss curtains because made in Switzerland. They consist of an applique embroidery on a cut ground. See Irish Point.
EMBROIDERED LACE. There are many classes of embroidered materials that are known to the trade as Swiss embroidery. These are for the most part embroidered by means of the Scliiffli machine on a muslin foundation but there is another type made by means of a cording machine that is distinctly a lace. The foundation is an open-mesh combination net lace, carrying a design filled in almost solid and the cording follows the solid parts of the design, as shown in the illustration