Lace Dictionary
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From Nancy Lace To Nun's Works

NANCY. BRODERIE DE NANCY. Drawn-work was frequently embroidered in colors and that made at Nancy, Dresden and Hamburg was called Broderie de Nancy, Dresden Point and Hamburg Point.

NANKIN. Silk used in the blonde laces made at Bayeux, Caen and Chantilly early in the Eighteenth Century was made at Nankin, China, hence sometimes called Nankin lace.

NANTES. Most of the lace-makers of France were Protestants and the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, 1685, drove them out of the country by the thousands. From Alen-con alone 4,000 lace-makers fled, most of them settling in the Netherlands. NAPLES. See Neapolitan.

NEAPOLITAN. Early Greek point laces, often called Roman or Reticella, were made in the Ionian Isles, Corfu, Venice, Naples, Rome, Florence and Milan. The term Neapolitan has clung to this type.

NEEDLE-POINT. The study of needle-point laces covers five distinct varieties: (1) the development of Reticella lace; (3) the Punto in Aria variety, openwork; (3) the padded or Venise point style; (4) the light quality of net laces; (5) the applique styles. The term needle-point applies to laces worked with a needle, as distinguished from those made by a bobbin, by darning, crocheting or other methods. The needle-point laces include Gros Point, Venise, Rose Point, Argentella, Alencon, Burano, Carnaval and Convent. Needlework is not necessarily needle-point. The needle is used for darning, or for overcasting, but only.when used in the button-hole stitch is the lace thus produced called needfc-point.

NETHERLANDS. (See Holland, Belgium, Flanders and Brabant.) The laces of the Netherlands were originally bobbin laces but at the period of the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, 1685, the Protestant lace-makers of France took refuge in the Netherlands and settled in Holland and the southern countries in the section now geographically covered by Belgium. Here fine needle-point laces were made, fine flax thread being used. To-day Dutch lace as a rule is coarse, while that of Belgium proper includes much that is exceedingly fine, Brussels, Mechlin and Binche.

NET LACES. (See Bobbinet also Machine Net.) In the beginning the net and the pattern were woven at one and the same time. Eventually the net was made separately by certain workers and the pattern put on by other workers. This new applique lace was in high favor during the period of Louis XV. The standards of needle-point net laces are the Argentan, Alenijon, Argentella and Brussels. The standards of bobbin net laces are Brussels, Lille, Mechlin and Valenciennes. Up to the time that Colbert established the famous French works producing Alengon, Argentan and other light net laces of needle-point character the centers of the manufacture were as follows:

--BELGIUM : Brussels, Mechlin, Antwerp, Liege, Louvain, Binche, Menin, Bruges, Ghent, Ypres, Courtray
--FRANCE (spread over more than ten Provinces) :
--ARTOIS Arras (Pas-de-Calais)
--FRENCH FLANDERS Lille, Valenciennes, Bailleul (Nord)
--NORMANDY Dieppe, Le Havre (Seine-Inferieure)
--ISLE DE FRANCE Paris and its environs
--AUVERCNE Aurillac (Cantal)
--VELAY Le Puy (Haute-Loire)
--LORRAINE Mirecourt (Vosges)
--BURGUNDY Dijon (Cote-d'or)
--CHAMPAGNE Charleville, Sedan (Ardennes)
--LYONNAIS Lyon (Rhone)
--POITOU Loudun (Vienne)
--LANGUEDOC Muret (Haute-Garonne)
--ITALY: Genoa, Venice, Milan, Ragusa.
--SPAIN : La Mancha, and in Catalonia especially.
--GERMANY: Saxony, Bohemia, Hungary, Denmark, and the Principality of Gotha.
--ENGLAND: Counties of Bedford, Bucks, Dorset, and Devon. NEW ROSS. One of the towns in which Irish laces were made.

NORMANDY. During the Sixteenth Century making real bobbin laces was the principal occupation of the women of Normandy. In the Eighteenth Century Normandy laces made great strides. Dieppe and Honfleur alone survived the Revolution and continued the lace industry of Normandy. Laces made at Dieppe and Havre sometimes called Point de Dieppe and Point du Havre. Darned netting, Mechlin, Valenciennes, Mignonette, peasant lace, trolly lace and Dentelle a la Vierge were made in Normandy.

NOTTINGHAM. (England.) Machine cotton laces made here. (See machine net.) The term while geographic applies particularly to curtain laces which are made also in large quantity in America. The jacquard system of producing patterns in machine lace was introduced in 1837 and the system has so far progressed that in some cases it is difficult to determine the difference between hand-made and machine lace; especially between hand-made cluny and machine-made. Machine cluny costs so little to produce that producers of hand work, in competition, have been obliged to use child labor and as a result much of the hand-made lace is not as nice looking as machine work. Scalloped cluny is invariably hand wrought, the machine not yet being able to produce scalloped effects. The paddle:; in hand cluny are usually flatter and more regular, even the cleverest imitations showing lumpy. The hand patterns have , invariably three yarns running lengthwise inside the paddles, while the machine work frequently shows four.

Nottingham mahine laces

NOTTINGHAM. Nottingham was the home of the machine lace industry and the term Nottingham still clings to the coarser curtain forms of lace as a generic term while for the finer laces the term Levers or Go-through is used, relating to the kind of machine on which the finer forms of lace are made. A first-class Levers lace machine costs from $5,000 to $6,000. The latest improvement on the Levers loom is that known in the trade as the Go-through. In this machine the bobbin carries the threads twice through the warp threads with one revolution of the crank shaft, thus increasing the working speed of the loom nearly 40 per cent. The work of the machine is extraordinary and as shown in our illustrations the ability to produce by machinery such clever imitations of hand work is little less than wonderful.

NUNS' WORK. The work of nuns, early cut-work in Medieval times; but at various periods all kinds of work had been called nuns' work, if literally of convent origin. NUREMBERG. Fine examples of bobbin lace were made in Nuremberg in the Seventeenth Century.