AMPTHILL. Queen Catherine of Aragon introduced the making of lace into Bedfordshire during her residence at Ampthill. Henry VIII was a frequent visitor to Ampthill Castle, and it was there that Catherine of Aragon lived from 1531 until divorced in 1533.
AMSTERDAM. Famous for reproduction of French Alen-50ns, Argentans and Brussels laces. Dentelle a la Reine was a generic term applied to these Amsterdamneedle-point laces
ANGLETERRE. POINT D'ANGLETRRE. Originally a Brussels lace smuggled into England and called Angleterre to avoid duty; subsequently made inEngland; sometimes classified as needle-point lace, although the net is bobbinet, the designs only being made with a needle.
ANGLICANUM. OPUS ANGLICANUM. English cut-work, needle-work and embroidery work are included in this term.
ANNABERG. Famous for its early bobbin laces. Barbara Uttmann, who introduced bobbin lace-making into Germany, was buried at Annaberg.
ANTIQUE LACE. See Opus Araneum.
ANTHERAEA MYLITIA : Raw silk
ANTHERAEA PERNYL: Raw silk
ANTWERP (Flanders). Mechlin, Lille, Brussels and Trolle Kant laces made here as early as the Seventeenth Century. [....]
Border of Antwerp Potten Kant with Fond Chant Ground
APPENZELL. Town in Switzerland where much lace is made by the peasants.
APPLIQUE. Applique or application lace is a lace in which the motif or the design detail is made separate from the background and applied thereon. Applique lace must not be confused with tambour, which is made by working upon machine-made net a design in chain stitch; nor must it be confused with run work which is made by running a thread in and out of the net in a manner to make a design. Point Applique is an application of needle-point details upon a net, usually machine-made. The history of old laces practically ends with the beginning of the Nineteenth Century, when machine-made net or bobbinet was made. In 1833 cotton thread was substituted for flax and the English particularly
produced many cheap reproductions of old Brussels, Alencons and Argentans in appliques.
ARABIAN. POINT ARABIAN. A curtain lace usually of drab color; tape-like figures heavily corded and connected bv brides.
ARABIAN LACET. Practically a "Renaissance" tape curtain lace, the tape corded in imitation of Arabian or Point Arabian effect and color.
ARANEUM. OPUS ARANEUM. A coarse, open form of darned work. At an early period in Italy regular netting darned in a way to show a design was called Lacis or Opus Filatorium. In France the modern survival is called Filet
ARGENTAN. POINT D’ARGENTAN. In 1650 Alengon and Argentan laces were generally known as Point de France laces. The workers at Argentan were often the same people who worked at Alengon. The Argentan net is firmer and larger than other needle-point nets; the pattern is bolder and flatter, not employing the fine cordonnet of Alencon. Argentan excels in brides or bars, particularly in the six-pointed star motifs to which are added three or four pearls on each side. This kind of bar is called bride epingle.
Argentan Lace, LouisXV
"Argentan" is the term given to lace (whether made at Alencon or Argentan) with large bride ground, which consists of a six-sided mesh, worked over with button-hole stitches. " It was always printed on the parchment pattern, and the upper angle of the hexagon was pricked ; the average side of a diagonal taken from angle to angle, in a so-called Argentan hexagon, was about one-sixth of an inch, and each side of the hexagon was about one-tenth of an inch. An idea of the minuteness of the work can be formed from the fact that a side of a hexagon would be overcast with some nine or ten button-hole stitches."
In other details, the workmanship of the laces styled Alencon and Argentan is identical; the large bride ground, however, could support a flower bolder and larger in pattern, in higher and heavier relief, than the reseau ground.