Abr or Ebru ( ikat in indonesian, chiné in French) describes a dye process, specifically the binding of one or both sets of threads prior to dyeing and weaving.
Aco. PUNTO IN Aco. Italian for needle-point.
APICOT. French name for an instrument to polish raised portions of lace.
AGUJA. PUNTO DE AGUJA. Spanish for needle-point.
AIGUILLE. POINT A L'AIGUILLE. French for needle-point.
ALAGOAS. Province of Alagoas, Brazil, was, in the middle of the Nineteenth Century, the chief center of the bobbin lace industry. The work was cotton and rather coarse.
ALBISSOLA. A town in Italy where early reticella laces were made, as well as Antique plaited laces and Aloe laces.
ALENCHES. Town in Upper Auvergne where point laces were at one time made.
ALENCON POINT. Originally made in Alencon, France; the beginning of light net laces gaining favor over the heavy Italian laces. A needle-point lace in which the ground is fine net, the pattern being outlined by a cordonnet firmer than other cordonnets, utilizing a covered horsehair. The ground or reseau is here shown. To-day Alengon Point is made at Bayeux, Burano and other cities.
The reseau is worked from left to right, au point boucle et tortille, with the thread attached to the outline of the flowers and ornaments.t It began to be made at Alencon about 1700.The modes are made, like ivticella, upon skeleton foundations of thread, which are afterwards covered with button-hole stitches, and were introduced, when the n'seau was used, to give an open and clear effect to certain portions of the design. The first modes were varieties of the brides a picots and zigzag bars picoted (Les Venises). The modes of Alencon, though very light, open, and effective, are not so rich and varied as those in Venise a reseau, or Brussels lace. Indeed, in 1761, a writer, describing the point de France, says that it does not arrive at the laste and delicacy of Brussels, and that the modes are inferior, and consequently much point is sent from Alencon to Brussels to have the modes added ; but connoisseurs, he adds, easily detect the difference.§ A favourite mode is the square trellis foundation, ornamented with M|iiares and circles at the points of intersection. Zigzag lines finely picoted are also used with effect. [.......]
ALLOVERS. Relating to the design which covers a net as distinguished from fragmentary motifs of borders or stripes
Antique Italian Point Coupe
ALOE. A form of bobbin lace made in many towns in Italy and Spain, especially Albissola, Barcelona, Genoa, and later in the Philippine Islands, and, being made of the fibers of the aloe plant, it is mucilagenous. Made with a bobbin; also made by tatting.
ALOST. A town in France famous for simple bobbin laces, Valenciennes, Honitons and darned laces
ALTAR LACES. Used for altar decoration; usually of Medieval character, usually darned, drawn or cut-work; sometimes reticella
Showing a definitely defined cordonnet edge to pattern
ALTO-E-BASSO: see Velvet
AMERICAN LACE. AS early as 1882 A. G. Jennings was making machine lace, Spanish lace and guipure. In 1884 Loeb & Schoenfeld made tambour lace curtains in Camden. In 1885 the Nottingham industry was started with one machine brought over by John Willoughby and put up at Ford-ham, New York.